‘If there was a mountain, it had to be leveled; if there was a valley, it had to be filled in; if there was a river, it had to be redirected’.1
Seung places much of the blame of Seoul’s skyline today on a greedy Western influence. Towers – which now dominate much of Seoul’s skyline – originally emerged as an architectural form of compensation. Multiple stories distinguish from other buildings, but with so many now, they have become almost indistinguishable from one another. Seung argues that Seoul doesn’t need to emulate landmarks of Paris’ Eiffel tower or Dubai’s Burj Khalifa because the landscape is a landmark in itself. It gives Seoul its identity. Perhaps this is an unrealistic suggestion for a world city but Seung argues that older buildings were built at a scale so as not to damage the natural landmarks, thereby respecting the landscape.
From Inwangsan towards the city (Ian Cooper) |
L-r: Map of Seoul with fortress wall 1765, Map of Palmanova - venetian star fort 17th century |
Korean hillside neighborhoods are a typical feature of Korean urban landscapes. Seung mentions ‘Daldonge’ which is located on a dramatic topography, not dissimilar to some areas I’ve been exploring in Seoul. The road layout is not only a circular network but they include communal courtyards, a meeting place, a playground… ‘It is architecture molded from the land.’4 Such communities, along with the Shamanist village on Inwangsan have been torn apart by pockets of redevelopment all over Seoul. Daldonge as remembered by Seung no longer exists.
Richard Sennett’s Wallenberg Lecture in1998 entitled “The Spaces for Democracy” spoke of a decentralised democracy having not only political, but visual dimensions too. Many prefer the jumbled, polyglot architecture of neighborhoods to the symbolic statements made by big central buildings. This is an issue I hope to address this year, thinking of older neighborhoods verses large complexes that dominate much of the city today.
“Teomuni” is a pattern that is inscribed on the ground, almost like a pattern of retaining walls revealing the nature of the landscape in Seoul. Like the palimpsest of a continuously re-written piece of parchment, landscape – an infrastructure within it – reveals of what once was.
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